Monthly Archives: November 2009

Kitchen Styles – Lifestyle Considerations

Nothing is more disruptive in a family’s lifestyle than a major kitchen renovation project. Most family members spend a great deal of their time at home in the kitchen. This important room is used to prepare meals, for informal eating, and as a casual gathering place for family and friends. People soon realize how important the room is when its torn apart during renovations, even the simple task of making a cup of coffee becomes a major undertaking without a kitchen. It is therefore critically important that tear out and new installation are coordinated during the design phase to minimize down time. If you want a real life definition of angry, tell your family that the kitchen will be down another week because you forgot to order something or your dimensions were wrong and you have to re-build a cabinet.

Most experts agree that a kitchen renovation project will return almost 100% on investment when the property is sold. Surveys by the real estate industry show that a kitchen is one, if not the most, important feature with potential purchasers. Real estate agents have told me that the quality of the kitchen often makes or breaks the sale.

Kitchen design is very subjective, there are few hard and fast rules. A feature or layout that is perfect for one person is far from perfect for another. The issue of lifestyle and how it revolves around the kitchen is very unique to each family. In most cases, the family, usually the prime user of the kitchen space will have very definite ideas on what is needed and what the end result has to be to meet their needs. Often they have been looking through magazines, drawing rough floor plans, measuring, and dreaming about their ideal kitchen for quite some time.

During the initial look at your existing kitchen, research all of the information about new products and features on the market. Ask yourself questions about your requirements and put ideas on paper. Combine your notes and rough drawings along with accurate measurements and attempt to come up with two or three floor plans. I don’t normally try to radically alter anything that will change a major feature that is important to me or my family; however, I will look at alternatives if I see something that is unsafe or very poorly designed. Try to incorporate the most important desires in alternative plans.

There are a few issues you should address during your initial look at the kitchen. Ask questions so that you understand all the needs. Consultants call it a needs analysis study, and although I don’t go in for fancy titles, I think the term applies in this case.
Discuss the existing kitchen space and layout with all the primary users of the kitchen in your household, listing the good and bad points of the design. Investigate the traffic patterns in and through the kitchen. Analyze the day to day meal preparation tasks. Try to formulate a “normal” daily meal preparation routine. Questions should be asked about your family’s desire to do more in the kitchen. Is there a hobby or area of interest, such as baking, that you would like to do more of if the added space or facilities were available.

Do you feel that a lot of walking or movement is necessary during meal preparation? Ask whether or not cleaning up after meals seems to be a monumental task. You may not solve that problem, but it may be reduced by simple layout changes. You or your family might want to entertain more in the kitchen, and formally in the dining room, if the kitchen space and functionality of the room could be improved upon.

Discuss your family’s wish list. If space or money was no object, what would you like to have in your dream kitchen? Discuss topics such as lighting, both area and task illumination, kitchen seating needs, as well as appliance upgrade needs. There are other areas that can be discussed which may surface during your investigation. I’ve found being a good listener and asking many questions to be the best approach.

Kitchen design is a difficult process because everyone’s needs and desires are different. I’ve designed and built cabinets and workspaces for kitchen renovation projects that I wouldn’t have in my own personal kitchen and I’m sure the reverse is true. Kitchen design is based on very personal and individual tastes.

Two design “rules” that seem to true in every case deal with color and illumination. Light color or natural wood cabinets tend to brighten and visually enlarge a space. Improved general and task lighting always enhances the project. Older kitchens seemed to have dark cabinets and poor illumination which gave you the impression you were in a cave. Yesterday’s kitchen was simply a place to prepare the meal, clean up and leave the room. Today’s lifestyle is very much focused on the kitchen as a gathering place for a wide and varied number of activities, the room has to be bright, seem large, be functional, and adapt to many of those activities. Take your time and investigate all the alternatives as the planning stage is a very important process of any kitchen renovation project.

There are many styles of kitchen layouts including the L Kitchen, galley, U shaped and Island style, which can present many human traffic problems. However most kitchen designers agree that the sum of all the legs in a work triangle in any style of kitchen, being the triangle formed by distances between the fridge to the stove to the sink and back to the fridge, not be less than ten feet and not greater than twenty-five feet. If the sum of the legs in the work triangle is too small, people will be tripping over each other and if too large, food preparation could be a very tiring task. I analyze this work pattern each time I design a kitchen layout and it’s proven to be a valuable exercise.

If you feel intimidated by the kitchen design process you may want to investigate the possibility enrolling in design courses that are offered by some community colleges in your area. Investigate the possibility of seminars offered by local, provincial, state, and federal trade associations. There is a national Kitchen and Bath Association, listed in the phone book of most large cities that may have information.

Kitchen design is a very important function, so much so that there is a Certified Kitchen Designer certification program. These individuals that are certified usually specialize in this area exclusively which illustrates how vast the kitchen renovation field has become. There is a good living to be made with a great deal of satisfaction in the kitchen renovation field. However, like all specialized trades, knowledge comes from learning and the greatest teacher is experience. Read books (I buy and read every book I see on kitchen cabinetmaking and design), attend seminar and training programs, and analyze every kitchen you come across for ideas and techniques.

There are certain accepted standards associated with kitchen cabinetmaking. Counter height, space allowance between base and upper cabinets, cabinet depth, as well as the space required for refrigerators and stoves.

These dimensions are not cast in stone but are generally accepted in the industry particularly by accessory and appliance manufacturers. The width of the majority of stoves is thirty inches and most refrigerators require thirty-three inches for proper installation. Normally, a thirty-one inch space is designed into the plan for stove installation. This gives us one half inch on each side of the stove so that it can be easily removed and replaced during cleaning or repair.

Refrigerators are not quite as standard as stoves but a good rule of thumb is to allow thirty-three inches for this appliance. The norm on most fridges is approximately thirty-two inches; however, check the existing appliance, or the one you plan to buy, before building. I was a little embarrassed on one occasion when an off standard fridge would not fit in the thirty-three inch space that I allowed between base cabinets. This situation is rare but it’s a reminder that you cannot take sizes for granted.

Kitchen design is one of the most critical components in a renovation project. Take your time, investigate all the options, and the end result will most probably meet all your expectations.

Kitchen Styles – 40 Kitchen Design Guidelines

1a. Doorways at least 32″ wide and not more than 24″ deep in the direction of travel.
1b. Walkways at least 36″ wide.
1c. Work aisles at least 42″ wide for one-cook, at least 48″ wide in multi-cook kitchens.
2. Work triangle 26′ or less, with no single leg shorter than 4′ nor longer than 9′.
3. No major traffic patterns should cross through the work triangle.
4. No entry, appliance or cabinet doors should interfere with one another.
5. In seating area, 36″ of clearance from counter/table edge to wall/obstruction if no traffic passes behind seated diners. 65″ clearance for walkway behind seated diners.
6. Kitchens under 150 sq. ft.: 144″ of wall cabinet frontage with cabinets at least 12″ deep, 30″ high with adjustable shelving.
Kitchen over 150 sq. ft.: 186″ wall cabinet frontage, with cabinets at least 12″ deep, 30″ high with adjustable shelving.
7. At least 60″ of wall cabinet frontage with cabinets at least 12″ deep, 30″ high, included within 72″ of the primary sink centerline.
8. Kitchens under 150 sq. ft.: 156″ base cabinet frontage with cabinets at least 21″ deep.
Kitchens over 150 sq. ft.: 192″ base cabinet frontage with cabinets at least 21″ deep.
9. Kitchens under 150 sq. ft.: at least 120″ of drawer or roll-out shelf frontage.
Kitchens over 150 sq. ft.: at least 165″ of drawer or roll-out shelf frontage.
10. At least five storage/organizing items located between 15″ – 48″ above the finished floor.
11. At least one functional corner storage unit should be included.
12. At least two waste receptacles should be included in the plan: one for garbage and one for recyclables.
13. Knee space should be planned below or adjacent to sinks, cooktops, ranges and ovens. This space should be a minimum of 27″ high by 30″ wide by 19″ deep.
14. Clear floor space of 30″ x 48″ should be provided at the sink, dishwasher, cooktop, oven and refrigerator.
15. A minimum of 21″ clear floor space should be allowed between the edge of the dishwasher and any object which is placed at a right angle to the dishwasher.
16. The edge of the primary dishwasher should be within 36″ of the edge of one sink.
17. The primary sink should be located between or across from the cooking surface, preparation area or refrigerator.
18. At least 24″ clearance between cooking surface and a protected surface above; or 30″ clearance between cooking surface and an unprotected surface above.
19. All major appliances used for surface cooking should have a ventilation system, with a fan rated at minimum of 150 CFM.
20. Cooking surface not placed below an operable window unless window is 3″ or more behind the appliance and more than 24″ above it.
21. Microwave ovens placed so bottom is 24″ to 48″ above the floor.
22. At least two work counter heights: one at 28″-36″ above the floor; and one at 36″-45″ above the floor.
23. Kitchens under 150 sq. ft.: at least 132″ of usable counter frontage.
Kitchens over 150 sq. ft.: at least 198″ of usable counter frontage.
24. At least 24″ counter frontage to one side of the primary sink and 18″ on the other side. The 24″ must be at the same height as the sink.
25. At least 3″ countertop frontage on one side of secondary sink, 18″ on the other side. The 18″ must be at the same height as the sink.
26. At least 15″ of landing space, minimum 16″ deep, above, below or adjacent to microwave oven.
27. Open-ended kitchen: at least 9″ counter space on one side of cooking surface and 15″ on the other, at the same height as the appliance.
Enclosed kitchen: at least 3″ of clearance space at an end wall protected by flame retardant material; 15″ on the other side at the same counter height as the appliance.
28. At least 15″ counter space on the latch side of the refrigerator or on either side of a side-by-side; or at least 15″ counter space no more than 48″ across from refrigerator.
29. At least 15″ of landing space, minimum 16″ deep, next to or above oven if it opens into a primary traffic pattern. If it does not open into traffic, 15″ x 16″ landing space needed.
30. 36″ continuous countertop at least 16″ deep for the preparation center. This center should be immediately next to a water source.
31. For two adjacent work centers, determine a minimum counter frontage: longest of the two required counter lengths and adding 12″.
32. No two primary work center separated by a full-height, full-depth tall tower configuration.
33. Minimum clearances for seating areas:

  • 30″ high table/counter: 30″ w x 19″ d table/counter for each seated diner with 19″ clear knee space.
  • 36″ high counter: 24″ w x 15″ d counter space for each seated diner with 15″ clear knee space.
  • 42″ high counter: 24″ w x 12″ d counter space for each seated diner with 12″ of clear knee space.
34. Open counter corners should be clipped or radiused; eliminate sharp corners.
35. Controls, handles and door/drawer pulls operational with one hand.
36. Wall-mounted room controls 15″ – 48″ above the finished floor.
37. Ground fault circuit interrupters specified on all receptacles within the kitchen.
38. Fire extinguisher visibly located in the kitchen, away from cooking equipment and 15″-48″ above floor.
39. Window/skylight area equals at least 10% of total square footage of kitchen or total living space which includes the kitchen.
40. Every work surface in the kitchen should be well illuminated by appropriate task and/or general lighting.

Limestone Tile

Natural Stone – Limestone

Pros: Wide range of soft colors for creating a soothing, contemporary environment. Makes for an ideal countertop surface in its harder, denser varieties, which resemble granite in their durability. Excellent for showers and bathroom flooring as it offers sure footing.

Cons: Soft, porous limestone can scratch, etch and stain much more easily than the dense varieties. Sealing helps to prevent staining, but will not solve problems with scratching and etching. Penetrating sealer should be applied to countertops, floors and in wet areas. Not recommended for outdoor flooring in areas prone to freezing. Can be pricey.

Installation tips: Substrates must be able to bear a heavy load and be rigid, clean, dry and flat. Concrete or a 1-2 layer of 3/4″ plywood and 1/2″ cement backer board combination are best for floors. Can be installed vertically in dry areas on drywall, green board, masonry or plaster in excellent condition. Blend tiles from all crates to ensure good color flow. Cut using a diamond-blade wet saw or a diamond-blade angle grinder. Light colored tiles should be set with a white modified thinset or marble and granite mix using a trowel that corresponds to the thickness of the tile. Dark colored tiles can be set using a gray modified thinset. Seal tiles well before grouting.

Care and maintenance: Prevent scratching from debris by employing walk-off mats at all entrances. Natural stone tiles are porous and should be sealed with a penetrating sealer. Clean be sweeping, vacuuming and mopping with a gentle neutral pH cleaner or stone soap as needed.

Metal Tile

Metal

Pros: Numerous sizes, shapes, textures and finishes available in addition to accents, trims and borders for use in wet and dry areas. Solid metal tiles are water, stain and frost proof. Easy to install and care for.

Cons: Metal-coated tiles can scratch. Solid metal tiles will acquire a patina over the years. Can be pricey in mass.

Installation tips: Ideal flooring substrates consist of concrete or plywood dressed with cement backer board. In dry areas, tiles can be installed vertically on drywall, green board, plaster, masonry or any clean, intact surface. Cut using hacksaw or an angle grinder fitted with a metal cutting blade. Metal-coated tile can be cut using a wet saw. Roughen the backsides of solid metal tiles with sandpaper to improve adhesion. Set with modified thinset mortar.

Care and maintenance: Clean with a soft dry rag. Solid metal tiles will acquire a patina over time and can be buffed to like new with a metal cleaner. A small amount of paste wax on the tile’s surface at installation will delay the aging process.

Glass Tile

Glass

Pros: Available in an enormous variety of sizes, shapes, color, patterns and textures. Can be used throughout the kitchen and bath and as flooring. Water, stain and frost proof. Easy to maintain.

Cons: Clear types are difficult to install and can scratch. Expensive.

Installation tips: Flooring substrates should be either concrete or plywood and cement board combination. Can be installed vertically in dry areas on drywall, plaster, masonry or any clean, stable surface. Cut tile using a wet saw fitted with a glass-cutting blade. Set tiles using a 1/4″, V-notched trowel and white modified thinset. Clear glass must be set with flattened trowel marks, whereas opaque glass may be set with the notches intact.  Care must be taken when installing mosaics to prevent setting material from squeezing up between joints.

Care and maintenance: There is no need to seal glass tile, however, sealing the grout is recommended. Clean with a glass cleaner and buff with a soft dry rag.

Porcelain Tile

Pros: Endless options in size, color, shape, texture and pattern for use just about anywhere in the home. Manufactured in large formats up to 24 inches with rectified edges that allow tile to be set tightly like natural stone. Styles mimic fabric, stone, wood, metal and terra cotta. High-fires for extreme durability. Frost-resistant. Easy to care for.

Cons: Cold and hard underfoot; addition of radiant heating and soft area rugs alleviates the problem. Because of its hardness, it is best cut with a wet saw. More difficult to install than ceramic when using a tight grout joint. Unglazed porcelain must be sealed to prevent staining. More expensive than basic ceramic.

Installation tips: Ideal substrates include concrete or plywood and cement backer board combination. In dry areas, tile can be placed vertically on any clean, durable, flat and intact surface. Cut tiles using a diamond-blade wet saw. Set with modified thinset mortar and square-notched trowel similar in depth to the tile’s thickness.

Care and maintenance: Unglazed porcelain tiles must be sealed with an impregnating sealer prior to grouting to prevent staining. Glazed porcelain tiles are only as strong as the surface glaze itself; be sure to check rating. Through-body porcelains are the hardiest and easiest to maintain. To clean, simply sweep, vacuum, and mop as needed.

 

Ceramic Tile

Pros: Available in an enormous variety of sizes, colors, shapes, finishes, patterns and textures for use in the     kitchen, bath and on the floor. Glazed ceramic floor tiles do not rot, fade, stain, scratch or burn. Nor do they harbor bacteria or odors. Extremely durable, easy to install and maintain. Affordable.

Cons: Cold and hard underfoot; addition of radiant heating and soft area rugs alleviates the problem. Certain finishes can prove slippery when wet. Grout should be sealed to prevent staining.

Installation tips: Substrate must be sturdy, rigid, flat and clean. Can be set over existing floor tiles in excellent shape; however, the preferred substrate consists of concrete or 3/4″ plywood and 1/2′ cement backer board combination. Cuts can be made using a snap cutter, and angle grinder fitted with a diamond/masonry blade or a wet saw. Use a square notched trowel the appropriate thickness of the tile and modified thinset to set.

Care and maintenance: Glazed floor and wall tile does not require sealing; however, it is wise to seal the grout. To clean glazed floor tile, simply sweep, vacuum and mop as needed. For wall tile, use a gentle cleaning agent and soft rag to maintain.

Countertops – Corian

Why Choose DuPont™ Corian®?

You have distinctive desires – and design considerations – for your home. You demand top-notch performance from every element of your new home or remodeling project. And that’s where Corian® truly shines. Its proven performance more than fulfills expectations, reflecting well on your choice – and on you – for years to come. Corian® solid surfaces are smooth and nonporous. As a result, they will not promote the growth of mold, mildew or bacteria. And because it’s nonporous, liquids and stains can’t penetrate Corian®, so it’s easy to clean and maintain. Corian® is also nontoxic, and chemically nonreactive, with virtually no off-gassing at normal room temperatures, in accordance with building codes and other local restrictions.

Care and Maintenance Tips

Corian® was created for a lifetime of easy care. Just follow the simple guidelines listed here to keep your Corian® surfaces looking as fresh as the day they were installed. Your care and maintenance kit will provide you with the tips and tools to help you enjoy your new Corian® top for years to come.

Routine Care

There are three types of countertop finishes: matte/satin, semi-gloss and high-gloss*. Most countertops are finished with a matte/satin finish. All sinks have a matte/satin finish. Soapy water, ammonia based cleaners or commercially available solid surface cleaners will remove most dirt and residue from all types of finishes. Stubborn residue will require a little stronger cleaner. Follow the recommendations on the next page to properly clean your countertop and sink.

With over 100 colors and varying hues some colors may appear to require more frequent cleaning to maintain a uniform finish.

Darker colors tend to require more attention than lighter colors.

Over time through care and use your countertop will acquire a patina, changing the appearance of the finish. You may restore the look of the original finish by following the refurbishing guidelines on the next page. *Contact your local Corian® sales expert if you are unsure of your finish.

Countertops

Cleaning All Finishes
Most dirt & residue Use soapy water or ammonia based cleaner, rinse and wipe dry. This is extra important when hard or well water is used
Water marks Wipe with damp cloth and wipe dry
Difficult residue Spray residue with Deep Cleaner for DuPont Corian® from Stone Care International, wait for about 30 seconds for cleaner to work. Wipe dry with a paper towel. If residue persists, repeat process. If residue still persists, follow directions for removing scratches.
Disinfecting Occasionally wipe surface with dilute household bleach (1 part water/1 part bleach). Rinse top thoroughly with water and wipe dry.
Sinks & Lavatories
Cleaning Follow procedures above or use Soft Scrub®** and a green Scotch-Brite®* pad to remove residue. Rub Scotch-Brite®* pad over entire sink to blend in finish.
Disinfecting Occasionally fill sink 1/4 full with diluted household bleach (1 part water/1 part bleach). Let stand for 15 minutes, then wash sides and bottom as solution drains. Rinse sink with water.
*Registered trademark of the 3M Company **Registered trademark of the Clorox Company.
 
  • DO NOT get bleach solution in eyes or on bare skin. Always wear rubber gloves and protective eyewear when working with bleach.
  • Over the counter cleaners, such as, Clean EnCounters® may be used for routine cleaning in place of soap and water.

1 Countertop Magic is a registered trademark of Magic America Corp.
2 Hope’s Countertop Polish is a registered trademark of The Hope Co.
3 Enhance Countertop Polish is a registered of Eastern Marble Co.

Preventing Heat Damage

Corian® is an excellent material for heat resistance. As with all countertop materials, it is important to use common sense to minimize direct heat exposure to protect your surface and investment. Use heat trivets or hot pads when placing hot objects on any surface and allow cookware to cool before placing them into a Corian® sink.

Preventing Other Damage

In most cases Corian® can be repaired if accidentally damaged. However, be sure to follow the guidelines here to prevent any permanent damage to Corian®.

  • Avoid exposing Corian® to strong chemicals, such as paint removers, oven cleaners, etc. If contact occurs, quickly flush the surface with water.
  • Do not cut directly on Corian® countertops.
  • Boiling water alone will not damage your Corian® sink; however it’s a good practice to run your faucet while pouring boiling water into your sink.

Removing Minor Cuts and Scratches*

Because the solid beauty of Corian® goes all the way through, Corian® surfaces are completely renewable. You can remove minor cuts and scratches yourself by following these instructions.

  • Judge the severity of the scratch and start with the finest grit sanding pad to remove the scratch. (The color of the pads from roughest to smoothest are: White, Yellow, Green, Peach, Lilac, Blue, Gray.) Rub over scratch in a straight line to remove it. Periodically switch rubbing direction 90°. Be sure all of the scratch is removed. If this first step takes too long, try the next heavier grit sanding pad. To minimize dust during sanding, wet the surface. Rinse pad periodically to clean residue.
  • Clean top with water. Select next lighter grit and repeat process. Rub over a larger area to blend in sanding.
  • Continue process using successively finer grits until desired gloss level is achieved. Rinse out all pads used and air dry before putting them away.

Sources for materials mentioned above:

Cleaner for DuPont™ Corian® SCI (800) 839-1654
Clean EnCounters® SCI (800) 839-1654
Abrasive pads Micro-Surface Finishing Products, Inc. (800) 225-3006
Countertop Magic® Magic America Corp. (800) 321-6330
Hope’s Countertop Polish The Hope Co. (800) 325-4026
Enhance Countertop Polish EMS – (800) 643-8818
Hope’s Countertop Polish The Hope Co. (800) 325-4026
SoftScrub® Local supermarkets
Green Scotch-Brite® Local supermarkets
*For large defects and repairs or for complete routine professional refurbishing service, contact your local Corian® sales expert.

Countertops – Stainless Steel

  • Stainless Steel Countertops are made with 14 and 16 gauge (1/16″ thick) grade #304 Government spec stainless steel.
  • The color of our stainless steel will match most appliances and hoods you may already have.
  • All joints are welded, ground, blended, and polished.
  • Edges are available in any thickness but 1 1/2″ is a standard.
  • Square, bullnosed, angled back, and marine (no drip), are very popular.
  • Sub structures are: bonded solid waterproof MDF, or steel hi hat angle reinforced with sound deadening coating. They are equal in height to the front edge thickness and sit right on cabinets without any blocking or shims.
  • Joints are welded and polished and are invisible. Layouts of any length or configuration may be produced.
  • For very large tops a mechanical, interlock, silicone sealed field joint is provided. No welding is, or needs to be, done on site.
  • Faucet holes are provided according to your specs.
  • Drain Pans are tapered 1/4″ so that water will flow into the sink.
  • You may provide a manufactured or imported sink for welding into the top.
  • CustomSinks can be fabricated of any dimension or shape, and weld in as a seamless part of any top.
  • Finishes include: #4 Omni-directional Brushed (standard), Hi Polish reflective, Custom Grinding patterns to match your spec or sample.
  • Countertops – Concrete

    Although concrete is a hardened mixture of water, cement, and sand or gravel, concrete countertops bear no resemblance to garage floors or roads.

    Concrete countertops are made of cement, lightweight aggregates, and other additives such as fiber reinforcement, silica fume pozzolan, and acrylic.

    In order to prevent cracking, reinforcement such as structural steel, wire mesh, fiberglass, and/or fibers is used.

    Depending on the installation requirements, more than one type of reinforcement may be used.

    In addition, concrete’s flexibility makes it an increasingly popular choice for drainboards, and backsplashes in complementary colors and textures.

    Concrete countertops are made by thousands of small independent fabricators scattered throughout the country. Each slab is hand cast so none will be exactly identical. Countertops are either pre-cast in a shop or built on site.

    The contractor will use whichever method he/she is most comfortable with. There are no industry-wide standards and no two fabricators make it in the same way. The type, method and number of coats of sealer are unique to each contractor

    Some contractors still form integrated sinks made of the same material as the top just as it has been done for many years, but the more common sink is a flush-mounted stainless steel or cast iron model.

    Characteristics

    • Appearance 

      Concrete countertops are a warm natural looking material. The surface of a properly finished concrete countertop is smooth and reflects light, although the use of chemical stains, coloring pigments, various aggregates, and epoxy coatings can give concrete the look, texture, and feel of quarried stone such as marble, granite, and limestone.

      Veining, texture and color vary, and regular use imparts a warm patina to the surface over time.

      The three most common types of finishes used for concrete countertops are:

      • Veined:  

        A diamond-impregnated grinding disk zigzags across the slab, producing marble-like veining in the background. While gently textured, the surface is smooth enough to roll dough or write a letter.

      • Trowel: 

        Obvious trowel marks and subtle variations of light and dark resemble a European plastered wall. However, the surface is smooth and mostly monochromatic.

      • Terrazzo:  

        Glass or marble chips are added to the background, creating a two-toned mottled effect. Again, the textured look is seen under a smooth top surface.

    • Available Colors 

      Each Concrete countertop contractor offers their own unique selection of standard and premium colors. Numerous color options give homeowners broad choices for coordinating a surface with other colors and materials in a room. But asking the fabricator to try to match a color will always increase the cost, and color matching is not an exact science.

    • Seams are Visible 

      Seams in concrete countertops are visible and look similar to the seams in marble or granite.

    • Must be Sealed 

      In its natural state, concrete is porous and will stain. Concrete countertops are sealed with a surface sealer, such as epoxy, for water and stain resistance. Many contractors add conditioners to the concrete to make it less permeable and thus more stain resistant.

      Many contractors recommend the application of a good water based liquid wax every nine months to a year.

    • Staining and Discoloration 

      Staining and discoloration can occur if the sealer is compromised from cutting or the application of heat (such as hot pots and pans).

      For those who want the look of concrete without worrying about stains, solid surface is the answer.

    • Durable but not Indestructible 

      Concrete countertops often develop hairline cracks, which are too narrow to trap food and debris. The cracks tend to be non-structural and result from the natural shrinkage of the concrete.

      Hairline cracks can be patched, but often look far more obvious than the cracks themselves. Most people prefer the aged appearance that this natural occurrence produces.

      Depending on the density of the concrete, a blow from a falling heavy object may crack the surface or break off the edges. However, under normal use concrete countertops will last a lifetime.

    • Maintenance 

      Cutting on the concrete countertop won’t hurt the concrete, but will damage the sealer, which can allow water and stains to penetrate the concrete. Cutting boards should always be used when chopping or preparing foods.

      Concrete is very heat resistant, but avoid placing hot pots or pans on concrete countertops since the heat can damage or discolor the sealer or wax. Always use a trivet or hot pad on the counter. Some contractors will insert trivets made of stainless steel, brass, or copper in the countertop.

      Do not use abrasive pads or powders on sealed counters. Clean with warm water and a non ammoniated, nonabrasive cleanser, or a stone soap.

    • Bacteria Resistance 

      A recent study conducted by the Hospitality Institute of Technology and Management, a St. Paul, Minnesota-based organization that develops educational materials and research for the retail food industry measured the bacteria-resistance capacity of six common countertop materials.

      Each surface was contaminated with E. coli (nearly 2 billion of the microorganisms), washed and rinsed with soap and water and then sanitized with a vinegar-and-water solution. The results are shown in the table below.

    Surface Microorganisms Eliminated by Cleaning

    Stainless Steel

    Granite
    Laminate
    Ceramic Tile
    Concrete
    Wood

    85,113,804

    79,432,823
    498,884
    293,765
    32,810
    2,080

    Dr. O. Peter Snyder Jr., who conducted the study, says, “We hope our research will help consumers make healthy decisions when selecting a countertop surface for their kitchens.”

    • Size Limitations 

      The standard concrete slab thickness is 1.5″, although 2″ slabs are common.

      A 1.5″ thick standard concrete countertop has an approximate weight of 18.75 pounds per square foot. (Granite is approximately 18 pounds per square foot.).

      Lightweight concrete is available that is just as durable as heavier concrete.

      A standard 1.5″ thick, ten square foot (2′x5′) countertop weighs nearly 200 pounds. Many contractors use 10′ long or 20 square feet in area as their maximum size for standard pricing. Larger sizes will require seams.

      Standard cabinetry will support the concrete slabs as the weight of the countertops is distributed over a large area.

    • Must be Professionally Installed

    Kitchen Styles – Countertops – Stone

    Granite

    Polished granite countertops are a popular element of up-scale kitchens.  Such a natural stone top conveys a sense of beauty and warmth that is combined with a durable work surface. Food preparation, including rolling dough, can be done directly on the surface without scratching or staining. Because of its density and non-porous nature, granite is naturally cool surface; therefore, hot pans can be set directly on countertops without blistering or scorching.  There will be slight variations from slab to slab because of mineral content and veining which adds to the character of the natural stone. Granite is available in three different finishes: polished surface which is appropriate for most kitchens, a thermal finish which has a rough-textured touch and a honed finish which provides a matte surface. For most countertops the optimum thickness is 1¼”.

    Marble

    Marble is recrystallized limestone. Numerous minerals are present which account for the markings and color range associated with the product. Marble is available in white, red, green, yellow, and black. Some marbles feature directional patterns; others have more general overall design. Generally, the more colorful and decorative the marble, the more fragile it is. Each vein in stone is the result of natural discoloration from water. It is like a tiny fracture which, under pressure, can lead to breakage. Marble is soft and porous. This means it will stain easily if not initially sealed with at least two coats of penetrating sealer, and resealed frequently. White marble is softer and less dense than colored marble, so the staining concern is intensified. Yet dark marbles show scratches more easily.

    Slate

    A great combination of earth tone colors and finish makes this stone one of its kinds. The vibrant colors and unique textures make slates appropriate for interior as well as exterior applications. Because it is formed in layers, it can easily be split to expose beautifully textured surfaces. The usual colors of slates are earthy (various shades and mixes of browns, beiges, yellows), black, dark-grays, and greenish-gray but shades of pinks, purples and copper are also found. They usually exhibit lot of variations amongst the pieces quarried from the same pit. Slates, depending on their individual hardness, are used for flooring, cladding and landscaping.

    Limestone

    The muted tones of limestone are perfect for today’s more casual and comfortable lifestyles. Generally these soft beiges and tans, either polished or honed, is appropriate for bathrooms, fireplaces, counters and less-traveled flooring where a more informal décor is desired. Limestones are sedimentary rocks that are formed at the bottom of lakes and seas, as silt and organic matter settle to the bottom. As more and more layers build up over thousands and millions of years, adding more and more weight, the heat and pressure cause chemical reactions to take place to harden the sediments into solid stone.

    Kosher Kitchens

    What makes a kosher kitchen? It’s the way the kitchen is used and

    maintained, rather than the design or materials, although some materials may be preferable. Ritual Jewish law and practice dictates separation of meat from dairy, and this extends to having entirely distinct sets of dishes, silver, cutlery, cookware, sinks, appliances and countertop areas. During the week of Passover dishes are changed again, and it’s clear to see that observant Jews – particularly those with sufficient space – are in the market for additional cabinetry, as well as all of the other accessories that make a kitchen convenient and appealing.

    In the real world not every home is large enough to accommodate doubling or tripling of the kitchen space, nor is every customer wealthy enough to handle such a large investment.  Those with severely modest means may have to box up Passover tableware and utensils and store them in closets for the other 51 weeks of the year. Sometimes a double sink will have to stand in for two separate units (even a single sink can be permissible, provided it is not of porous material and is properly cleaned before switching from meat to dairy or vise versa). A single dishwasher also may be acceptable to some authorities provided it has a stainless steel interior and the racks are changed depending on what dishes are being washed.

    Under the circumstances, it’s obvious that any kosher customer with the means id going to want to make their kitchen as large and as workable as possible. Other clients may also want large, easy to use kitchens and more than one dishwasher or sink, but for the kosher observant, it is almost a necessity.

    One of the more significant differences between a kosher and non-kosher kitchen is that most conventional kitchens are predicted on an invisible work triangle defined by the placement of one sink, one refrigerator and one range.  In a kosher kitchen we have two overlapping triangles and, ideally, two sinks, two refrigerators and two ranges.

    There is more to designing a kosher kitchen than just adding extra appliances. Our Urban Homes designers have designed many kosher kitchens, and as with conventional designs, we realize that the ability to make every inch of space count is a highly valued skill.

    Accordingly, our designers advise customers to:

    • Eliminate soffits and run cabinets all the way up to the ceiling.
    • Use “magic corner” wire basket drawers to open up dead corners and facilitate cleaning in those corners.
    • Recommend appliances that feature a Sabbath mode. With refrigerators, for example, this means a unit that allows the automatic fan to be turned off from Friday sundown to Saturday night (or to stay in a constant “on” position), thus releasing the residents of a household from inadvertently causing initiation of power usage during the Sabbath period when such activity is prohibited. 
    • Recommend stainless steel sinks and steel or granite countertops and work surfaces for customers who can’t or won’t have fully discrete areas for meat and dairy. Make sure that the material is a pure granite or stone. Sometimes they are really composites and cannot be kashered. These surfaces can be used for both, provided that they are thoroughly cleaned and that boiling water is poured on them in between meat and dairy operations.

     

    According to Star-K, which provides kosher certification, wood may also be kashered as stainless steel if it has a smooth surface and no cracks. Kosher law does not, however, allow kashering of plastic or materials with plastic components.

    When it comes to choosing appliances, whether the kitchen can accommodate two sets or not, it is important to keep kosher belief in mind. Case in point, according to Star-K, kashering a glass, Corning, halogen or electric smoothtop range can be a difficult process, as it is hard to kasher the area surrounding the actual burners. On a gas range the cast iron or metal grates upon which the pots sit may be inserted into the oven after they have been thoroughly cleaned. The grates can then be kashered simultaneously with the oven, making this and easier process (and possibly a better choice) for the homeowner. Of course, if there are any questions that arise during the design of kosher kitchen, we suggest that customers should be encouraged to ask for rabbinic guidance